PRICE
$1395 (advanced) 2:1 ratio
$1795 (includes prerequisite Alpine Rock Skills Training day)
SCHEDULE
Forbidden Peak*
July 26 – July 28, 2025 (Sat-Mon) – Sold Out
August 22– August 24, 2025 (Fri-Sun) – 1 spot left
September 5 – September 7, 2025 (Fri-Sun) – Sold Out
BOOK THIS TRIP »
* All dates available unless indicated as sold out.
JOIN WAITLIST »
DETAILS
Grade: Advanced
3 Day Summit Climb
Talk to an ADVENTURE expert
425.749.7421
OVERVIEW
At 8,815 feet, Forbidden Peak rises high above the spectacular Boston Basin in the heart of North Cascades National Park. A variety of challenging and spectacular routes lead to its summit, but Forbidden Peak is most often climbed via the West Ridge, one of North America’s “50 Classic Climbs.” With its beautiful approach through lush old-growth forest and airy, enjoyable, 5th class climbing amid incredible views of Sahale Peak, Eldorado Peak, Boston Peak, Mount Torment and other mountains, Forbidden Peak is an excellent choice for aspiring alpinists who want to hone their skills on more advanced terrain.
West Ridge via Boston Basin • 3 Day Ascent
Listed in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s famous book, “The 50 Classic Climbs of North America,” Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge is one of the most sought-after alpine rock routes in the Pacific Northwest. Accessed from the beautiful Cascade River Road, climbers approach the route via a 4-hour hike to a high camp in Boston Basin. From high camp, a steep snow gully leads to the ridge crest. From there, eight pitches of mid-5th class climbing lead to the summit. Along the way, climbers enjoy impressive views down the north side of Forbidden Peak to lonely Moraine Lake, of the spectacular North Face of Mount Johannesberg, and of Sahale Peak’s Quien Sabe Glacier and other peaks of the Cascade Pass area.
Forbidden Peak West Ridge + Alpine Rock Skills Training • 4 Days
In order to safely complete this climb, there are several requirements you must meet. Climbers must ascend eight pitches of mid-5th class alpine rock. Climbers will need to rappel on the descent. Alpine rock climbing has challenges in addition to what is indicated by just the climbing grade. This is a long and committed route. Participants must be able to conduct themselves safely, even in adverse conditions. Please consider joining us for our 1-Day Alpine Rock Skills Training if you do not feel comfortable with rock safety basics.
Northwest Alpine Guides’ 1-Day Alpine Rock Skills Training is a day of instruction tailored to the alpine rock climb on which you’re embarking with our team. The training covers safety skills such as efficient movement, climbing knots and hitches, anchor management, climbing communication, and belaying, lowering, and rappelling techniques as appropriate. We offer this training on the diorite cliffs of Mount Erie on the day before your climb is scheduled to begin.
Boston Basin Approach
- Approach Time to Camp: 3-4 hours
- Distance: 3-4 miles, 3200 ft. gain
- Trailhead: Boston Basin Climbers Path, 3200 ft.
- Low Camp: 5300 ft.
- High Camp: 6400 ft.
- Camp to Summit: 4 to 5 hours, 1,715 ft. gain
- Trail synopsis: From Cascade River Road, we follow an abandoned road for one mile to an old mine site, then continue up a climbers’ path across four stream crossings until we emerge above tree line at 5,300 feet into Boston Basin. We choose between a variety of campsites in the basin below 6,400 feet.
Classic Routes in Boston Basin
Forbidden Peak East Ridge
Of the three ridges we guide on Forbidden Peak, the East Ridge offers the most difficult and sustained rock climbing. To reach the base of the route, we hike for several hours up ridges and gullies on the east side of the inaccurately named Unnamed Glacier, directly below Forbidden Peak. From a notch on the East Ridge, we climb 6 to 8 pitches (up to 5.8) on the ridgecrest and on both sides of the ridge while bypassing several gendarmes. We descend either the West Ridge or the East Ledges. Like the West Ridge, this route features amazing views. It is usually completed as part of a longer stay in Boston Basin.
Forbidden Peak North Ridge
The North Ridge has it all: a tricky approach over loose scree on the Sharkfin Col, a traverse of the massive Boston Glacier and 8 pitches of steep snow, ice and 5th class rock to gain Forbidden Peak’s thrilling and exposed summit pyramid. Few groups can complete this route in fewer than 3 days. Most parties bivouac at the base of the North Ridge on their first night, then traverse the summit and descend back into Boston Basin on Day 2 and return to the trailhead on Day 3.
Sharkfin Tower South East Ridge
Sharkfin Tower rises above the famous Boston Basin between Forbidden Peak and Sahale Mountain. The Southeast Ridge can be ascended as an excellent introduction to alpine rock climbing, or can be combined with an ascent of another peak in the area as part of a longer itinerary. This route features a combination of glacier travel, steep snow and moderate rock, allowing climbers to practice many of the skills of a well-rounded alpinist.
Climb Highlights
- Enjoy a Northwest Alpine Guides adventure and summit a beautiful peak in the heart of North Cascades National Park.
- Climb 5th class alpine rock up the spectacular West Ridge to summit of Forbidden Peak.
- Access to our convenient BaseCamp and The Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA.
Day to Day Itinerary
Day 1 • Hike to High Camp
Day 2 • Summit Day
Day 3 • Hike to Trailhead
Qualifications
This is an advanced level climb suitable for climbers in excellent physical condition with solid backpacking skills and prior glacier and rock climbing experience. A one-hour glacier travel skills training will be taught. Climbers must ascend eight pitches of mid-5th class alpine rock. Climbers will need to rappel on the descent. Please consider joining us for our 1-Day Alpine Rock Skills Training if you do not feel comfortable with rock safety basics. No extra acclimatization is necessary for this program. Read our Goals and Fitness page for recommendations on how to best physically prepare for this adventure.
2 to 1 Climber to Guide Ratio
We lead the Forbidden Peak route at a 2 to 1 climber to guide ratio to ensure that you receive personal attention and hands-on instruction throughout the climb.
Northwest Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide service within North Cascades National Park
ITINERARY
Forbidden Peak West Ridge via Boston Basin
Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins.
Day 1 • Hike to High Camp • 6,400 feet
Video Resource: What to Expect the Morning of the Climb
Meet at our BaseCamp in Sedro-Woolley, WA.
Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including a gear list specific to your trip, meeting location and driving directions.
Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, gear check, and group gear distribution. The drive to Boston Basin Trailhead at 3,200 feet takes approximately two hours.
The hike to high camp takes 3 to 4 hours. We ascend a steep trail through old-growth forest with a series of creek crossings and then emerge above tree line into Boston Basin. We establish our high camp at 6,400 feet in the upper basin below a pocket glacier that provides access to the West Ridge Route.
Once in high camp, our guides will teach a one-hour climbing skills refresher. Each team member will be assessed throughout the mountaineering instruction. You will need to demonstrate adequate fitness and proficiency in climbing skills as your safety is our priority.
We return to camp, where we enjoy dinner and go to bed early in preparation for the next day’s climb.
Vertical Gain Hiking: 3,200 feet
Hiking Time: 3-4 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: None
Day 2 • Summit Day • Forbidden Peak • 8,115 feet
Our summit day starts early with a pre-dawn alpine start. From Boston Basin high camp, we cross the Unnamed Glacier under the sheer South Face of Forbidden Peak. We ascend 500 vertical feet into the West Ridge Couloir, then climb steep, 40- to 50-degree snow, ice and low-5th class rock to a notch on the West Ridge. We follow the exposed crest of the ridge on mostly solid rock via ledges and cracks, avoiding difficulties by traversing onto the north side of ridge. On the summit, we enjoy the view and celebrate our success, then descend our climbing route and rappel down the couloir to the edge of the glacier. We return to high camp for some well-deserved rest and dinner.
Vertical Gain Climbing: 1,700 feet
Climbing Time: 7-10 hours
Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: None
Day 3 • Hike to Trailhead
After enjoying breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. We generally arrive back at our cars by early-afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro-Woolley.
Vertical Descent Hiking: 3,200 feet
Hiking Time: 2-3 hours
Meals Included: None
Plan to depart the day after the climb ends.
Itinerary Notes
Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
DETAILS
Where to Meet
At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at BaseCamp in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration.
Deposit and Payments
- A non-refundable deposit of $300 per person secures your reservation.
- The balance is due 120 days prior to start date.
- The balance can be paid by credit card with a surcharge of 3.0%, or Zelle payment network.
- If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees forfeited.
Price Includes
- Guided climb and instruction
- Boiled water for meals
- Professional mountain guide
- Group equipment (including tents, ropes, stoves, etc.)
- Wilderness Permits
Price Does Not Include
- Transportation
- Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass)
- Meals and snack food
- Personal gear
- Hotels or lodging
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Medical and evacuation coverage
- Staff gratuities
Guides
Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. They are dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earth’s major mountain ranges. Our guides are friendly, very willing to share their own experiences, and can help you develop a plan to achieve your own climbing ambitions. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid.
Tipping
Our guides are dedicated mountain professionals who work hard to ensure your success and wellbeing on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. An average tip is 10 – 20% percent of the cost of the program, usually $100 – $200. Your guide team will pool all tips.
Summit Attempt
Northwest Alpine Guides cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe. You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Failure to reach the summit due to a team member’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not NWAG responsibility and will not result in refund or reschedule.
Age Guidelines
Participants age 16 & 17: May participate in fixed-date group itineraries if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian.
Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian.
We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons.
Minimum Participants
Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price.
Travel Insurance
We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. Northwest Alpine Guides does not insure you against these risks. We ask that you consult your travel insurance carrier directly with questions.
For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit.
Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance
Travel, evacuation and rescue coverage designed for adventure travelers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit)
Global Rescue
We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. For travel insurance or Global Rescue membership.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Global Rescue
For Non-US Residents & Citizens – World Nomads
For Canadians and for other non-US residents (enter your country of origin), World Nomads can provide travel and disaster insurance options for mountaineers.
Date Changes
Date changes may be requested at any time up to 60 days prior to your departure date for a $100.00 fee per person. Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. No date changes allowed less than 60 days before departure.
Cancellations
Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. Please read our Terms and Conditions.
MEALS
You will need to provide all of your own meals during the Forbidden Peak Climb. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Video Resource: Mountain Snack and Lunch Ideas
Meal Schedule
Day 1: Lunch & snacks for hike from trailhead to high camp, Dinner
Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. Dinner in high camp.
Day 2: Alpine Breakfast, Lunch & snacks for climb to summit, Dinner
Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Dinner in high camp.
Day 3: Breakfast. Snack and lunch food for the descent to trailhead
Mountain Lunches
We recommend that you bring a variety of snack food to eat while moving (about 150-200 calories each break). On each day, we will encourage you to eat at regular, short maintenance breaks, roughly once every hour. These snacks can be critical for maintaining a steady supply of energy while moving up and down the mountain. We will not stop for a big lunch break.
Some examples of snack foods include dried meats (salami), jerky (turkey, beef, fish), tuna fish, cheese, crackers, bagels, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, candy bars, gummy candy, cookies, energy bars and trail mix.
We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. We recommend a selection of sweet, sour and salty food.
When preparing lunches, please do not bring food items that require cooking or extensive preparation.
Mountain Breakfasts and Dinners
Please prepare your meals prior to your climb. Suggested food items:
Alpine Breakfast: Instant oatmeal, Pop Tarts, dried fruit, granola bars, bagels, peanut butter, cream cheese.
Dinner: Freeze-dried dinners are easy to prepare but do not always taste good and may affect your stomach. Instant noodle soups and rice are also popular. You may also consider bringing a cold meal of dried meat, bread, pizza, or sandwiches.
Hot Drinks: Coffee, Caffeinated Tea, Herbal Tea, Cocoa, Cider
Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. Hot, boiled cooking water will be provided for your meal preparation, for example for freeze-dried dinners, instant soups, instant oatmeal and hot drinks.
When preparing meals, please do not bring food items that require extensive cooking or other preparation.
The Guide Hut offers a wide variety of freeze-dried meals for purchase, including vegan and gluten free options.
TRAVEL
Getting There
At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at BaseCamp in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. Upon receiving your registration, Northwest Alpine Guides will email you complete PreClimb information, including a gear list specific to your itinerary and other departure details. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent.
The small town of Sedro-Woolley, “The Gateway to the North Cascades,” is approximately 70 miles and a 1.5-hour drive from Seattle or Bellevue. Limited services are available in Sedro-Woolley. More extensive food, shopping and lodging options may be found nearby in the cities of Mount Vernon and Burlington.
Northwest Alpine Guides | BaseCamp | The Guide Hut
305 F And S Grade Road
Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284
Click here for directions
Additional parking can be found across the street in the Park & Ride lot.
Welcome to BaseCamp and The Guide Hut
What to Expect the Morning of the Climb
Northwest Alpine Guides is excited to announce the opening of BaseCamp, our new meeting location and seasonal guide office in Sedro-Woolley, Washington, the Gateway to the North Cascades!
The Guide Hut serves as our rental shop and retail store for guests of Northwest Alpine Guides. Find a variety of retail items, logo wear, and climbing equipment. Visit our online gear shop for available merchandise and rental gear options.
At BaseCamp:
- Guests may pick up pre-reserved rentals, try on rental boots, and shop for last-minute items.
- Gear Check: There is ample time to pick up items during the gear check the morning of the climb.
BaseCamp exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides customers. It is not open to the public and operates only during scheduled hours.
Flight Travel
Most climbers will fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) the evening before the program and rent a car for the hour and forty-five minute drive to Sedro Woolley, Washington. Please note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be significantly longer.
Our Northwest programs begin at the date, time and meeting location listed in the itinerary in your PreClimb Information. Meeting locations may vary depending on program destination. Climbers flying to Washington State must arrive the day before their program begins in order to meet the group for an early morning gear check and orientation. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. If departing on the last day of the program, we recommend booking a flight later than 10 pm.
Transportation
Transportation between the meeting location and the trailhead is not included in the price of the trip. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. With your permission, our office staff can share your name and contact information with other team members so that you can organize ridesharing. The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns. If you are trying to coordinate a ride, feel free to send an email to info@northwestalpineguides.com and we can forward it to your fellow climbers.
Trailhead Parking
You will need to obtain a NW Forest Pass or equivalent parking permit to leave your car at the trailhead lot. Single-use passes are $5.00 per day. They can be purchased in advance or the day of the gear check. A National Parks pass may suffice.
Driving Directions
From Seattle
Take I-5 North towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County.
Take exit 232 from I-5 N
Turn right onto Cook Road, Head East to Sedro-Woolley
Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi)
At the traffic circle, take the 3rd exit and onto Borseth Road
Turn left onto F & S Grade Road
BaseCamp / Northwest Alpine Guides is the first building on your left
From Bellingham
Take I-5 South towards Burlington to Cook Road in Skagit County.
Take exit 232 from I-5 S
Turn left onto Cook Road, Head East to Sedro-Woolley
Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi)
At the traffic circle, take the 3rd exit and onto Borseth Road
Turn left onto F & S Grade Road
BaseCamp / Northwest Alpine Guides is the first building on your left
Hotels
Lodging in Sedro-Woolley and Burlington, Washington. If you wish to stay close to the meeting location the night before your climb, we recommend the following options:
The Kulshan Hotel
807 Trail Road
Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284
Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington
9384 Old Hwy 99 North
Burlington, WA 98233
La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington
1670 S Burlington Blvd
Burlington, WA 98233
GEAR LIST
These items are required for our Forbidden Peak climb.
Discover premium retail and rental equipment at The Guide Hut’s online store. Order today, and your gear will be ready for pickup at BaseCamp on the morning of your climb. Don’t miss our Guide Picks blog for brand-specific gear recommendations. Gear up with us for your next adventure!
Head and Face
- Warm Hat: Wool or synthetic. Must cover the ears.
- Buff
- Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
- Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. A category 4 lens is required.
- Sunscreen: SPF 30+
- Lip Balm: SPF 30+
- Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.
Upper Body
- Baselayer Tops: One synthetic long-sleeve shirts. Hoods for sun protection are strongly recommended. A second base layer is optional to bring if you prefer a change of clothes.
- Softshell Jacket: This is a breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended. Alternatively, you could bring a mid- layer top such as a synthetic fleece or top to use in place of your softshell jacket.
- Hardshell Jacket: A fully waterproof shell. GORE-TEX© or equivalent. Hoods are required.
- Insulated Jacket: Medium weight down. 700+ fill or higher required.
- Check out our video resource on Down Jackets for more.
Note: Proper hardshell rain gear is required on all trips.
Note: Women may want to bring an extra sports bra in case one becomes wet.
Handwear
- Lightweight Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
- Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove or mitten with GORE-TEX© waterproof outer or DWR treatment.
Lower Body
- Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton.
- Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated.
- Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants. Full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your hardshell pants without removing your boots.
- Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.
Footwear
- Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on the season.
Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations.
● Heavyweight insulated leather/synthetic/hybrid mountaineering boots are required for early season and late-summer climbs on Forbidden Peak. Also recommended for mid-summer climbs.
● Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid-summer climbs on Forbidden Peak when conditions are expected to be dry.
X – NO backpacking or trekking boots are allowed above high camp on any trip. Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible.
- Approach Shoes (Optional): Light hiking boots or sturdy trail running shoes may be adequate for late-season approaches to high camp after trails are free of snow. Must be sturdy enough to support your ankles while carrying a carrying a 35- to 45- pound pack.
- Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
- Heavyweight Socks: One pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.
Sleeping
- Sleeping Bag: A warm bag rated 0ᵒ to 20ᵒ Fahrenheit depending on season.
- Sleeping Pad: A full-length closed-cell foam and/or inflatable pad. Foam AND inflatable pads are recommended for camping on snow during early-season climbs.
- Check out our video resource on Sleep Systems for more.
Packing and Backpack
- Backpack: One 65- to 75-liter pack for personal and group gear. Should have an effective waist belt, fit properly and provide good support while carrying 35+ pounds.
- Liner Bags: 1 large plastic contractor bag.
- Check out our video resource on Packing a Mountaineering Backpack for more.
Note: An adequately sized backpack is required. You are responsible for carrying all your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). We do not recommend an additional pack for summit day. Backpacks smaller than 65 liters are not acceptable.
Climbing Gear
- Ice Axe: 55-75 cm mountaineering axe.
- Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
- Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
- Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
- Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
- Locking Carabiners: (4) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
- Non-Locking Carabiners: (2) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
- Nylon Slings: (1) 60cm nylon sling, (1) 120cm nylon sling
- Belay device: Tube style belay device.
- Rock Shoes: Comfortable to wear in the mountains.
Hydration
- Water Bottles: (2) 1-liter, wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©
Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. Bladders may pop and hydration hoses freeze in the cold.
Personal Health and First Aid
- Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit
- Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
- Crystal iodine, chlorine dioxide, or equivalent chemical water treatment
- Bear resistant container or sack
- Toilet paper
- Blue bag or wag bag
- Earplugs
- Camera
- Pee Funnel (for Women), optional
- Hand Sanitizer
- Personal Items
Note: Pack basic medical supplies in a compact package. We recommend basic painkillers, Moleskin, first-aid or athletic tape, Band-Aids, and anti-septic wipes or gel.
Note: All solid waste must be carried out of the backcountry. One waste kit per 1-3 days is typically sufficient.
FITNESS
Physical fitness is the foundation of every mountain adventure. A strong cardiovascular system, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance let us safely enjoy the spectacular terrain and close camaraderie we find in the planet’s highest places.
Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Do not underestimate the importance of climbing-specific training.
The following fitness guidelines will help you prepare for your climb. For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must be able to maintain the pace set by our guides while maintaining reserves of strength. Moving more slowly can be dangerous. As the climbing day lengthens, we become fatigued and dehydrated. We lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting mountain conditions and weather.
Fitness Benchmarks
To safely enjoy this climb, you must be able to meet these benchmark times while maintaining reserves of strength. Our guides may turn around climbers who are unable to do so. We recommend training for the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak at least 3-6 months in advance.
- You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours.
- You should be able to ascend 3,000 feet per day while carrying 20-25 pounds on your back, and 4,000 feet per day while carrying 45 pounds or more on your back.
- You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength.
Forbidden Peak: West Ridge
Forbidden Peak’s West Ridge demands approximately 5,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. This climb includes some glacier travel, steep snow, and more than 1,500 vertical feet of moderate rock climbing up to grade 5.4. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork.
Cascade River Road Trailhead to Boston Basin Camp:
- Distance: 3-4 miles
- Ascent: 3,200 feet
- Pack Weight: 45+ pounds
- Time: 3-4 hours
Boston Basin Camp to Summit:
- Distance: 2 miles
- Ascent: 1,700 feet
- Pack Weight: 20-25 pounds
- Time: 4-5 hours
Training Resources:
Please read our Goals & Fitness guide for strategies to help you train for your climb. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the West Ridge:
Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing
Intro to Sport Climbing
North Cascades Alpine Climbing
Many climbers, particularly those who are new to the sport, will benefit from a workout plan designed to prepare you for the rigors of mountaineering. We recommend the following training resources:
Frequently Asked Questions
What about safety?
No matter if you have never climbed before, our instructors are prepared to help you learn mountaineering from the ground up. In addition to professional instruction in climbing skills, most importantly, you will learn skills that will keep you safe in the mountains. With an adventure sport like mountaineering, safety is paramount.
All our instructors have advanced avalanche training, wilderness medical training, and will instruct you how to be self-reliant in the mountains. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable – weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. Northwest Alpine Guides will instruct you how to climb safely and successfully.
Peaks of the North Cascades
Click to read more about the Peaks of the North Cascades in Washington State.
General FAQ’s
Click to read general Frequently Asked Questions
