Smith Rock Intro to Sport Climbing

At Northwest Alpine Guides, we take pride in our ability to cater to your individual rock climbing goals. The basalt and tuff cliffs of Smith Rock State Park are home to an exceptional density of varied climbing terrain, all accessible via short approaches on well-maintained trails. We strive to tailor our itineraries to your specific objectives. On our longer, 3- to 5-day itineraries we can easily refine our climbing and educational goals daily as the trip progresses.

Our 2 Day Intro to Sport Climbing at Smith Rock is perfect for those who are new to climbing or are starting to climb outside after honing their skills in the gym. Our longer itineraries take you beyond the fundamentals with a blend of instruction and pure climbing. Our professional guides will work with you whether you are primarily interested in climbing some fantastic routes, whether you want to refine your technique to climb harder grades, or whether you’re focused on developing your ropework, anchor building, and leading skills to climb safely and independently outside in the future.

On our 2 Day Intro to Sport Climbing at Smith Rock we introduce you to the essential movement and technical skills you need to safely climb sport routes outside. In “sport climbing,” climbers protect themselves by clipping their ropes to metal bolts already placed on the rock. It is the most accessible form of outdoor climbing, and it is many climbers’ entry into the vast world of rock climbing. Our 2 Day course includes ample time for pure rock climbing as well.

On our longer 3- to 5-Day itineraries, the sky is the limit. We’ll have ample time to explore the variety of climbing options at Smith Rock and devote significant time to skills training. On our longer itineraries, you can expect to climb a variety of faces, cracks, single-pitch (one “pitch” is one rope length) climbs and longer routes. You will also practice the technical and movement skills that are most important to you.

Please contact us to discuss your goals and which itinerary is right for you.

• Rock climbing movement skills 
• Climbing equipment & clothing 
• Climbing knots & hitches 
• Using a guidebook 
• Climbing communication 
• Belaying, lowering and rappelling 
• Introduction to sport climbing anchors and protection 
• Leave No Trace 

• Sport lead climbing
• Traditional lead climbing
• Placing traditional gear
• Traditional gear anchors
• Sport or traditional multipitch climbing
• Multipitch rappelling
• Introduction to aid climbing
• Climbing trip planning

Smith Rock State Park is home to more than 1,500 climbing routes, ranging from face climbs to cracks to aid routes. Our professional guides can climb with you throughout this immensely varied terrain. Popular objectives include: 

Beginner 

• Round River – 5.4 – 3 pitches 
• Cave Route – 5.4 – 3 Pitches 
• Cinnamon Slab – 5.6 – 2 Pitches 
• Moscow – 5.6 – 2 Pitches 
• Birds in a Rut – 5.7 – 6 Pitches 
• Bunny Face – 5.7 – 2 Pitches 

Intermediate: 

• Super Slab – 5.6 – 3 Pitches 
• Marsupials Traverse – 5.8 – 10 Pitches  
• Pioneer Route – 5.8, C0 – 3 Pitches 
• West Face Variation – 5.8, C0 – 5 Pitches 
• Voyage of the Cowdog – 5.9 – 3 Pitches 
• Wherever I may Roam – 5.9 – 5 Pitches 
• White Satan – 5.9 – 3 Pitches 
• Dirty Pinkos – 5.9+ – 4 Pitches 
• Thin Air – 5.10b – 3 Pitches 
• Zebra to Zion – 5.10b – 4 Pitches 

Advanced:  

• Barred Reality – 5.10b/c – 3 Pitches 
• Lost in Space – 5.10c – 4 Pitches 
• Monkey Space – 5.11b – 5 Pitches 

Notable single-pitch venues:  

• Morning Glory Wall 
• The Dihedrals 
• Christian Brothers Crags 
• The Peanut 
• Rope de Dope Block 
• Lower Gorge 
• Red Wall

Trip begins and ends at Smith Rock State Park, Terrebonne, Oregon

The team meets at the entrance to Smith Rock State Park for an orientation and introductions. We take a short walk to an easily accessible area such as Morning Glory Wall or the Dihedrals to go over important skills and start climbing. Today’s instruction will include: climbing movement, harnesses, knots, belaying, basic climbing communication. After lunch, we devote the afternoon to a slightly longer route such as Round River, which takes us three rope lengths, or “pitches” off the ground, ending with exhilarating views of Smith Rock and the surrounding landscape.

Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including personal gear list, meeting location and driving directions.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

We start the day off with more climbing on shorter routes near the ground. We refresh skills learned on Day 1 and then introduce new topics, including basic sport anchors. This morning is an excellent opportunity to test the edge of our abilities and comfort lever by attempting a slightly harder route. In the afternoon, we embark on a multipitch climbing adventure to the highest point at Smith Rocks where we enjoy breathtaking views across Central Oregon.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

Itinerary Notes
Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

Trip begins and ends at Smith Rock State Park, Terrebonne, Oregon

NOTE: At Northwest Alpine Guides, we adapt our Smith Rock Climbing itineraries to the interests of each group. Itineraries can be tailored to specific kinds of climbing (trad, sport, multipitch, aid), specific routes, and/or to develop specific technical and movement skills. Here is a sample 5-day itinerary for climbers interested in learning new skills and climbing some excellent routes:

The team meets at the entrance to Smith Rock State Park for an orientation and introductions. We take a short walk to an easily accessible area such as Morning Glory Wall or the Dihedrals to go over important skills and start climbing. Today’s instruction will include: climbing movement, harnesses, knots, belaying, basic climbing communication. After lunch, we devote the afternoon to a slightly longer route such as Round River, which takes us three rope lengths, or “pitches” off the ground, ending with exhilarating views of Smith Rock and the surrounding landscape.

Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including personal gear list, meeting location and driving directions.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

We start the day off with more climbing on shorter routes near the ground. We refresh skills learned on Day 1 and then introduce new topics, including basic sport anchors. This morning is an excellent opportunity to test the edge of our abilities and comfort lever by attempting a slightly harder route. In the afternoon, we embark on a multipitch climbing adventure to the highest point at Smith Rocks where we enjoy breathtaking views across Central Oregon.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

Marsupials Day! Today we hike to the Marsupials Crags, on the outskirts of Smith Rock, to climb any one of several long, adventurous routes that take us high above the Crooked River to the top of the Wombat, one of the tallest formations at Smith Rock. From the summit, we enjoy views of the Sisters, Mount Jefferson and other Cascade volcanoes, as well as the immense volcanic caldera that surrounds Smith Rock. A short scramble and a pleasant hike take us back to the trailhead.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

Today we focus on developing new skills and addressing any technical questions that have come up on the previous days. Potential topics include rope management, anchors, rappelling, and movement skills such as footwork or crack technique. We do more single-pitch climbing, too. We can return to the Marsupials or explore a new area or a different style of climbing.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

Monkey Face Day! We mark our final day of the trip with an ascent of Smith Rock’s most spectacular formation, the Monkey Face tower. This pinnacle rises roughly 300 feet from a slope above the Crooked River. Several classic routes lead to the summit. Once on top, we take in the view, celebrate our trip, and then return to terra firma the only way we can: via a 140-foot, free-hanging descent.

Accommodations: Hotel or Campground (not included)

Itinerary Notes
Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

Where to Meet

At 8 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the main parking lot at Smith Rock State Park, in Terrebonne, OR, for an equipment check and orientation before a short hike to the crags. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration.

Deposit and Payments

• $300.00 deposit includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application.
• Balance due 90 days prior to start date.
• The balance can be paid by check, or credit card.

Price Includes

• Guided climbing and instruction
• Professional mountain guide
• Group equipment (including ropes, protection, and other gear)

Participants age 16 & 17: May participate in fixed-date group itineraries if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian.

Participants age 15 and younger: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian.

All minor climbers must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian throughout the entirety of the program. If either the minor climber or the guardian needs to descend at any time during the program, both climbers must descend together.

Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. Please read our Online Reservation for Terms and Conditions.

We recommend that you bring a variety of snack food to keep you energized at Smith Rock. On each day, we will encourage you to eat regular snacks, which can be critical for maintaining a steady supply of energy during a full day of climbing. When our schedule permits (during single-pitch days, for example) we may stop for a lunch break. On longer, multipitch climbs we may not be able to stop as a group for a mid-day break.

Some examples of snack foods include dried meats (salami), jerky (turkey, beef, fish), tuna fish, cheese, crackers, bagels, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, candy bars, gummy candy, cookies, energy bars and trail mix.

We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. We recommend a selection of sweet, sour and salty food.

When preparing lunches, please do not bring food items that require cooking or extensive preparation.

At 8:00 am, the morning of the climb, we meet at the Smith Rock State Park Welcome Center in the parking lot at the entrance of Smith Rock State Park in Terrebonne, OR, for an equipment check and orientation before making the short walk to the crags. We will email you PreClimb info including gear list and departure details upon registration.

Smith Rock State Park
Terrebonne, OR 97760

Please arrive at the trailhead with all required personal climbing gear and snack lunch food for the day. We rent and sell a selection of climbing equipment, including harnesses, climbing shoes, helmets, chalk bags, belay devices, cord and carabiners, but reservations and purchases must be made before one week prior to the first day of the trip.

From Redmond:

Follow US-97 North for roughly 7 miles to Lambert Road in downtown Terrebonne.

Turn right onto Lambert Road. Head East for 3 miles to Crooked River Road.

Turn left onto Crooked River Road and follow it into Smith Rock State Park.

The meeting location will be at Smith Rock Welcome Center in the parking lot that parallels the road on your left.

From Bend:

Follow US-97 North for roughly 25 miles to Lambert Road in downtown Terrebonne.

Turn right onto Lambert Road. Head East for 3 miles to Crooked River Road.

Turn left onto Crooked River Road and follow it into Smith Rock State Park.

The meeting location will be at Smith Rock Welcome Center in the parking lot that parallels the road on your left.

From Portland

Follow US-26 East for roughly 130 miles to US-97 South in Madras, OR.

Follow US-97 South for 22 miles to Lambert Road in downtown Terrebonne.

Turn left onto Lambert Road. Head East for 3 miles to Crooked River Road.

Turn left onto Crooked River Road and follow it into Smith Rock State Park.

The meeting location will be at Smith Rock Welcome Center in the parking lot that parallels the road on your left.