Expedition Training

All our mountaineering courses include breakfast, dinner and hot drinks on the mountain. To minimize pack weight, we use the lightest available, high-quality mountaineering tents, stoves and group equipment. We meet in Ashford for an equipment check and orientation on the first morning of the course. The next day we make our way to the trailhead and ascend to our basecamp. Each day is dedicated to learning expedition mountaineering skills. On Day Four we ascend to Camp Muir. On Day Six we return to the trailhead.

• Rest step, step kicking and pressure breathing
• Ice axe techniques and self arrest training
• Crampon usage and techniques
• Glacier travel, climbing as a rope team
• Introduction to snow & ice anchors
• Crevasse rescue
• Basic climbing knots & hitches
• Ascending fixed lines
• Belaying, rappelling, rope management
• Mountain navigation
• Establishing a secure expedition snow camp
• Traveling with snowshoes and sleds
• Leave No Trace skills
• Climb to Camp Muir
• Discussion topics will include: Clothing and equipment, packing a backpack, mountain weather, glaciology, acclimatization, route finding, snow camp skills. Our professional guides will follow the above curriculum, introducing the essential mountaineering skills for a successful summit climb.

Muir Snowfield

• Approach Time to Camp Muir: 5-6+ hours
• Distance: 4.5 miles, 4800 ft. gain
• Trailhead: Paradise Meadow, 5400 ft.
• Panorama Point Basecamp: 6,000 – 6,300 ft.
• Elevation Gain to Basecamp: 900 feet
• Camp Muir: 10,188 ft.
• Total Elevation Gain: 4,800 feet
• Pack Weight: 50-60 lbs. trailhead to High Camp, 20 lbs. to Camp Muir
• Trail synopsis: Our route begins at Paradise Meadows gaining elevation moderately until reaching our basecamp near tree line around 6,000 feet. The trail is snow covered during the spring season so we will utilize snow shoes and sleds for travel. We continue our climb to Camp Muir, taking a break near split rock between 7,600 – 7,800 feet. From here we ascend snow, kicking steps and moderately gaining elevation to our second (8,600 ft.) and third breaks reaching the top of Moon Rocks at 9,200 feet. We take our final break shortly before reaching Camp Muir.

Course begins and ends in Mount Rainier National Park

Plan to arrive the day before the course begins.

Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including personal gear list, meeting location and driving directions.

Our alpine guides will meet you for team introductions, a thorough gear check, group gear distribution and discussions on expedition packing. On Day One and throughout the course our guides will host thorough discussions on various mountaineering topics.

Accommodations are not included: Overnight in Ashford, WA

The hike to basecamp takes 2 to 3 hours. The team will set camp between 6,000 and 6,300 feet depending on conditions. After setting up camp, your guides will continue instruction as time allows. We prepare dinner and relax for the evening with views of the extensive Nisqually Glacier and the south side of Mount Rainier.

Vertical gain climbing: 600-900 feet

Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: Dinner (D)

Today we learn mountaineering fundamentals. Instruction includes snow climbing, ice axe and crampon technique, self-arrest and team arrest, rope travel and basic knots and anchors. 

Each team member will be assessed throughout the mountaineering school. You will need to demonstrate adequate fitness and proficiency in climbing skills as your safety is our priority. 

After mountaineering training, we return to camp and prepare for our climb to Camp Muir. The team enjoys dinner and goes to bed early for the next day’s climb. 

Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Dinner (B, D)

We gain 3,400 feet over 5 to 6 hours as we ascend the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir, where we set up our tents on the edge of the Cowlitz Glacier. During the afternoon guides will continue instruction as time allows.

Vertical gain climbing: 3,400 feet

Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Dinner (B, D)

Today our curriculum moves into advanced glacier mountaineering skills needed for big mountain expedition climbing. We learn navigation, crevasse rescue, snow and ice protection, ascending fixed lines, belaying, rappelling, and rope management.

Accommodations: Tented Camp
Meals Included: Breakfast, Dinner (B, D)

After enjoying breakfast, we wrap up our skills training and break camp. Then we retrace our hike back to the trailhead. We usually arrive back at the trailhead by early afternoon and conclude our adventure in Ashford.

Meals Included: Breakfast (B)

Plan to depart the day after the course ends.

Itinerary Notes
Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner

10:00 a.m., the morning of the course, we meeting in Ashford, WA. We will email you PreClimb info including gear list and departure details upon registration.

• $1000.00 deposit includes reservation fee, due with application.
• Balance due 120 days prior to start date.

Price Includes

• Guided course and instruction
• Scheduled meals on the mountain (breakfast, dinner, hot drinks)
• Professional mountain guide
• Group equipment (including tents, ropes, stoves, sleds, etc.)
• Wilderness Permits

Participants age 16 & 17: May participate in a fixed-date group climb if accompanied by a parent or legal guardian.

Participants age 15 or under: NWAG requires a private climb accompanied by parent or legal guardian.

A minor climber must be accompanied by their parent/legal guardian throughout the entirety of the program. If either climber must descend at any time during the program, both climbers must descend together.

Since departures require a minimum number of participates, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. Please read our Online Reservation for Terms and Conditions.

We recommend a variety of snack food for eating on the go, we do not stop for a big lunch break, we eat during short maintenance breaks throughout the day. The idea is to keep your energy level up for the climb eating small amounts about every hour or so.

Some examples of snack-lunch foods are dried meats (salami), jerky (turkey, beef, fish), tuna fish, cheese, crackers, bagels, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, candy bars, gummy candy, cookies, energy bars, GORP trail mix.

The importance of having foods that you like to eat cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. A diet of sweet, sour and salty foods is recommended.

When preparing lunches, please do not bring food items that require cooking or extensive preparation.

Day 1: Course orientation
No meals provided

Day 2: Lunch & snacks for hike from trailhead to basecamp
Two or three 15-minute lunch & snack breaks

Day 3: Lunch & snacks for mountaineering school
8-hour training includes a 30-minute lunch break, two 15-minute snack breaks

Day 4: Lunch & snacks for climb to Camp Muir
Three or four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to Camp Muir, two 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from Camp Muir to high camp

Day 5: Lunch & snacks for mountaineering school
8-hour training includes a 30-minute lunch break, two 15-minute snack breaks

Day 6: Remaining snacks for the descent to trailhead

10:00 a.m., the morning of the course, we meeting in Ashford, WA. We will email you PreClimb info including gear list and departure details upon registration.