Expedition Training

Learn how to prepare for a big mountain expedition on the most glaciated peak in the Lower 48 States. Our 6-Day Expedition Training Course uses Mount Rainier as a classroom while teaching aspiring mountaineers the advanced climbing and logistical skills needed for expeditions to Denali, Aconcagua and the Himalaya. You will learn to navigate in the mountains and build a secure expedition snow camp while practicing the essentials of glacier mountaineering, including: crampon and ice axe technique, climbing on snow, self-arrest, snow anchors, rope team travel, crevasse rescue and more. Depending on mountain conditions, we will use snowshoes and sleds for travel. This course gives you the essential skills needed to travel safely and independently in the glaciated mountain environment.

Where to Meet

Deposit and Payments

Guides

Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. They are dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earth’s major mountain ranges. Our guides are friendly, very willing to share their own experiences, and can help you develop a plan to achieve your own climbing ambitions. All our guides carry current certification in wilderness first aid.

Tipping

Our guides are dedicated mountain professionals who work hard to ensure your success and wellbeing on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. An average tip is 10 – 20% percent of the cost of the program, usually $100 – $200. Your guide team will pool all tips. If you prefer to transfer funds electronically, please send gratuities through paypal.me/mountaingurus

Summit Attempt

Our course goal is to learn and practice foundational mountaineering skills. As such, a summit attempt is not one of our goals.

Minimum Participants

Travel Insurance

We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. Travel insurance offers the best protection in the event of a sudden, unexpected illness, an injury prior to or while traveling, or a possible family emergency.

If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. Northwest Alpine Guides does not insure you against these risks. We ask that you consult your travel insurance carrier directly with questions.

For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance

Travel, evacuation and rescue coverage designed for adventure travelers.

For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™

• Waiv­er for pre-exist­ing con­di­tions (must be pur­chased with­in 14 days of trip deposit)
• Option­al ​“Can­cel for Any Rea­son” cov­er­age (must be pur­chased with­in 14 days of trip deposit)

Global Rescue

We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. For travel insurance or Global Rescue membership.

For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Global Rescue

Date Changes

Date changes are not available for this departure.

Cancellations

During the Mount Rainier Expedition Training Course, Northwest Alpine Guides will provide group meals consisting of four (4) breakfasts and four (4) dinners. You will need to provide your own lunch and snack food on the mountain.

Mountain Lunches

Group Meals

Northwest Alpine Guides may provide and prepare the following items for group breakfasts and dinners:

Breakfast: Oatmeal, Toasted Bagels with Cream Cheese, Pop Tarts, Granola Bars

Dinner: Chicken, Beef, Pork, Cheese, Noodles, Spaghetti, Tortellini, Rice, Beans, Fresh Vegetables, Tasty Bite Indian Meals, Freeze-Dried Meals

Hot Drinks: Coffee, Caffeinated Tea, Herbal Tea

Meal Concerns

We can accommodate most common food allergies. We do not serve fish, shellfish, peanuts, tree nuts, milk or eggs. For vegetarian diets, we are easily able to leave out the meat before serving group meals. For those with other dietary concerns, we recommend bringing food to supplement the pre-planned meals we provide. The Guide Hut offers a wide variety of freeze-dried meals for purchase, including vegan and gluten free options.

Getting There

Flight Travel

Most climbers will fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) the evening before the program and rent a car for the hour and forty-five minute drive to Ashford, Washington. Please note that Seattle traffic is worsening and driving times from Seattle and Seattle-Tacoma International Airport may be significantly longer.

Our Northwest programs begin at the date, time and meeting location listed in the itinerary in your PreClimb Information. Meeting locations may vary depending on program destination. Climbers flying to Washington State must arrive the day before their program begins in order the meet the group for an early morning gear check and orientation. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. We strongly recommend that climbers book a hotel night following the final day of their itinerary and schedule departure flights on the following day. If departing on the last day of the program, we recommend booking a flight later than 10 pm.

Transportation

Transportation between the meeting location and the trailhead is not included in the price of the trip. Guides are not responsible for providing transportation to team members. We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. With your permission, our office staff can share your name and contact information with other team members so that you can organize ridesharing. The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns.

Mountain Weather

For updated North Cascades weather forecasts, click here.

These items are required for our Mount Rainier Expedition Training course.

The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. Gear may be purchased from the Guide Hut in advance via our Online Gear Shop. Rental gear must be reserved in advance using our quick rental form. Please read our Guide Picks blog post for gear recommendations by specific brands.

Head and Face

• Warm Hat: Wool or synthetic. Must cover the ears.
• Buff or Balaclava
• Sun Hat or Baseball Cap
• Glacier Glasses: Essential eye protection at altitude. Wrap around style or side shields. A category 4 lens is required.
• Goggles: One pair with dark lenses to protect from snow and wind and adequate ventilation to prevent fogging.
• Sunscreen: SPF 30+
• Lip Balm: SPF 30+
• Climbing LED Headlamp: Bring one extra set of batteries.

Upper Body

• Baselayer Tops: Two synthetic long-sleeve shirts. Hoods for sun protection are strongly recommended.
• Mid-layer Top: A synthetic or fleece top.
• Softshell Jacket: This is a breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket. Hoods are highly recommended.
• Hardshell Jacket: A fully waterproof shell. GORE-TEX© or equivalent. Hoods are required.
• Insulated Jacket: Medium weight down. 700+ fill or higher required.

Note: Proper hardshell rain gear is required on all trips.
Note: Women may want to bring an extra sports bra in case one becomes wet.

Handwear

• Lightweight Softshell Gloves: One pair. Leather palms offer durability and grip.
• Heavyweight Gloves: Insulated glove or mitten with GORE-TEX© or waterproof outer.

Lower Body

• Baselayer Bottom: One pair. Synthetic, no cotton.
• Softshell Pants: One pair. Synthetic, stretchy, non-insulated.
• Hardshell Pants: One pair of GORE-TEX© pants. Full-length side zips are required; you may need to take off your hardshell pants without removing your boots.
• Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots.

Footwear

• Mountaineering Boots: Full shank crampon compatible double plastic, leather, synthetic, or hybrid boot depending on the season.

Note: Please read our Mountaineering Boots and Crampons guides for recommendations.

● Double plastic mountaineering boots or heavyweight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are required for Mount Rainier.

X – NO backpacking or trekking boots are allowed above high camp on any trip. Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible.

• Mediumweight Socks: Two pair of wool or synthetic socks.
• Heavyweight Socks: One pair of wool or synthetic socks for sleeping in and for summit day.

Sleeping

• Sleeping Bag: A warm bag rated 0ᵒ to 20ᵒ Fahrenheit depending on season.
• Sleeping Pad: A full-length closed-cell foam and/or inflatable pad. Foam AND inflatable pads are recommended for camping on snow during early-season climbs.

Packing and Backpack

• Backpack: One 65- to 75-liter pack for personal and group gear. Should have an effective waist belt, fit properly and provide good support while carrying 45+ pounds.
• Liner Bags: 2 large plastic contractor bags.

Note: An adequately sized backpack is required. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). We do not recommend an additional pack for summit day.

Climbing Gear

• Ice Axe: 55-75 cm mountaineering axe.
• Crampons: 12-point steel with anti-balling plates.
• Climbing Helmet: Lightweight
• Alpine Harness: Lightweight alpine harness with adjustable leg loops.
• Trekking Poles: Adjustable and collapsible with snow baskets.
• Locking Carabiners: (2) Large pear-shaped, screw gate locking carabiners.
• Non-Locking Carabiners: (4) Wire gate non-locking carabiners.
• Belay Device: Tube style belay device.
• Rescue Pulley
• Prussik Cord: 6 mm, 30 feet
• Nylon Slings: (2) 60 cm nylon slings

Hydration

• Water Bottles: (2) 1-liter, wide-mouth plastic bottles. NALGENE©

Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. Bladders may pop and hydration hoses freeze in the cold.

Personal Health and First Aid

• Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit
• Plastic bowl, insulated mug, and spoon
• Toilet paper, blue bag or wag bag
• Earplugs
• Camera
• Pee Funnel (for Women), optional
• Hand Sanitizer
• Personal Items

Note: Pack basic medical supplies in a compact package. We recommend basic painkillers, Moleskin, first-aid or athletic tape, Band-Aids, and anti-septic wipes or gel.
Note: All solid waste must be carried out of the backcountry. One waste kit per 1-3 days is typically sufficient.

Physical fitness is the foundation of every mountain adventure. A strong cardiovascular system, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance let us safely enjoy the spectacular terrain and close camaraderie we find in the planet’s highest places. 

Mountaineering is a strenuous activity that imposes unique demands on our bodies. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Do not underestimate the importance of climbing-specific training.

The following fitness guidelines will help you prepare for your climb. For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must be able to maintain the pace set by our guides while maintaining reserves of strength. Moving more slowly can be dangerous. As the climbing day lengthens, we become fatigued and dehydrated. We lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting mountain conditions and weather. 

Fitness Benchmarks

• You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10-minute breaks, for up to 9 hours.
• You should be able to ascend 4,000 feet per day while carrying 45 pounds or more on your back.

Training Resources:

Please read our Goals & Fitness guide for strategies to help you train for your climb.

Many climbers, particularly those who are new to the sport, will benefit from a workout plan designed to prepare you for the rigors of mountaineering. We recommend the following training resources:

Uphill Athlete
Mountain Tactical Institute