Eldorado Peak is considered the “Queen of the Cascade River“. As Washington States 25th highest peak the route ascends the Eldorado Glacier and up the East Ridge to the peaks knife-edge summit. The peak is perched at the edge of the largest contiguous non-volcanic ice sheet in the lower 48 states known as the Klawatti – Inspiration – McAllister Icecap.
Inspiration Glacier and East Ridge • 3 Day Ascent
The climb presents an intermediate challenge with spectacular views of Dorado Needle, Forbidden Peak, Mount Buckner, Johannesburg and the peaks of the Ptarmigan Traverse. On the approach we climb steeply through heavy timber, gaining a large boulder field and eventually crossing Eldorado creek. The steep trail eventually gives way to a beautiful alpine basin, we then traverse the ridge line and down a steep gully into Roush creek basin at the toe of the Eldorado Glacier. Our ascent travels the moderate Eldorado and Inspiration glaciers and ascends the East Ridge to the summit. The final knife-edge summit ridge offers a thrilling and exposed steep snow traverse. We have the option of setting high camp in the Eldorado Basin or moving to the Eldorado – Inspiration Glacier high camp witch offers views of Moraine Lake, McAllister Glacier and Klawatti Glacier. Our professional guides will introduce and teach you the skills necessary to make a safe and successful climb.
NW Alpine Guides is an authorized outfitter guide within North Cascades National Park
Inspiration Glacier and East Ridge
Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins.
Day 1 • Hike to High Camp
Gear check and drive to the trailhead. Hike to camp in the Eldorado Basin. Basic climb school.
Day 2 • Summit Day via Inspiration Glacier • 8,868 feet
Summit day starts early. The climb ascends the Inspiration Glacier from camp to the East Ridge and the base of the summit. We climb steep snow slopes before reaching the final exposed knife edge ridge to the summit. Return to camp.
Day 3 • Hike to Trailhead
After breakfast we pack our gear and return to the trailhead.
Plan to depart the day after the climb ends.
NWAG makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner
Where to Meet
8:00 am, the morning of the climb. We meet in Sedro Woolley for equipment check before heading to the trailhead. We will email you PreClimb info including gear list and departure details upon registration.
Deposit and Payments
$500.00 deposit includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee, due with application. Balance due 90 days prior to start date.
- Guided climb and instruction
- Boiled water for meals
- Professional mountain guide
- Group equipment (including tents, ropes, stoves, etc.)
- Wilderness Permits
Price Does Not Include
- Trailhead parking fees (NW Forest Pass)
- Meals and snack food
- Personal gear
- Hotels or lodging
- Trip cancellation insurance
- Medical and evacuation coverage
- Staff gratuities