Which Mount Baker trip is right for me?
Here at Northwest Alpine Guides, one of the most common questions we’re asked is whether to join our 5-Day Mt Baker Glacier Mountaineering Course or our 6-Day Expedition Training Course. If you’ve been considering these courses, then this resource is for you! Here we’ll highlight the similarities and differences between the trips, as well as the types of climbers each is geared toward.
What do they have in common?
Both courses are designed for climbers with future independent, unguided mountaineering ambitions. We teach a snow school which covers mountaineering footwork, crampon and ice axe techniques, alpine knots and hitches, movement fundamentals for rope team travel, and an introduction to basic snow anchors. An entire additional day is devoted to learning crevasse rescue systems, a critical skill for glacier mountaineering.
Both programs include a guided summit attempt on Mt Baker via one of the standard routes, typically the Easton or Coleman-Deming glaciers. On that summit attempt our expert guides will help you put into practice those techniques you learned during snow school. Due to the massive size of Mt Baker’s glaciers but relatively straightforward standard routes, the summit push offers a unique opportunity to gain experience and confidence over a lengthy climb in a safe and beginner-friendly environment.
On both trips, Northwest Alpine Guides provides group gear including shovels, climbing ropes, snow protection, and mountaineering tents. Additionally, we offer top-notch rental equipment and retail options through The Guide Hut covering much of the mountaineering-specific gear you need to bring; from ice axes to crampons, mountaineering boots, helmets, harnesses, and more, we’ve got you covered. This minimizes the cost to you in terms of the gear and supplies you need to purchase for your first mountaineering adventure.
What are the differences?
The 6-Day Expedition Training course uses the extra time in the field to cover additional skills training. The curriculum is adapted according to the seasonal conditions on Mount Baker. While deeper snow conditions persist for trips in May and June, we spend more time on skills for establishing snow camps, rigging and traveling with sleds, and avalanche hazard mitigation. These dates are popular with climbers aspiring to winter mountaineering objectives in the Pacific Northwest, Denali, and major peaks in Nepal.
As the seasonal snowpack melts away for dates in July and August, exposing more of the glaciers and their crevasse hazards, the focus of the course shifts toward skills for dryer conditions including more complex glacier navigation, snow and ice protection, and anchor systems. These dates are most often chosen by climbers with ambitions including Pico de Orizaba, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, and Aconcagua, which are typically climbed in similar conditions.
Climbers are responsible for their own stoves, fuel, water, and cooking on the 6-Day Expedition Training Course and it is for this reason that we rate it as “intermediate” grade. Prior glacier mountaineering experience is not required; however, previous outdoor experience and solid backpacking skills are helpful for these logistical and camping skills.
On the 5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course, Northwest Alpine Guides provides the stoves, fuel, and breakfasts and dinners in the field. Guides will handle the cooking on these meals and will provide drinking water in camp. For these reasons, this course is rated as “beginner” grade.
So, how should I decide which trip is for me?
We encourage you to think about your goals and priorities for this adventure to help you decide:
If this is your first mountaineering adventure, and you have ambitions of climbing similar peaks independently, unguided going forward, we recommend the 5-Day Glacier Mountaineering Course. It’s hard to beat the comprehensive nature of this trip; combining all the skills training in a single program and culminating in a summit attempt with your team is an unforgettable experience. Many participants on this course have independent climbing plans already in mind and want to gain the skills they need all in one trip.
If your future climbing plans include expeditions to peaks such as Pico de Orizaba, Cotopaxi or Chimborazo, Aconcagua, Denali, or even the Himalaya, and you have some prior climbing or backcountry camping experience, consider the 6-Day Expedition Training Course.
Still have questions or are you not sure if either trip is right for you? Contact our team and we’ll be more than happy to help. We look forward to climbing with you!
